I've purchased four OpenEVSE EVSEs, this is my first "kit".
IMO, this guide needs to be re-written top-to-bottom.
The system layout drawing at the top is both low-res (click on it and can't zoom because it's too low-res to read the text) and out-of-date, referencing a separate Wi-Fi module that no longer exists -- it's been integrated into the display PCB.
The various pictures in an assembly tech document should never show a completed unit with circled parts; it should show the unit in the stage of assembly that the assembler will be when encountering the description.
Modules shown do not reflect current kits shipping, colors have to be looked up (see low-res comment above),
Step 7 has gibberish copy/pasted (see my comment at that step itself).
Yes, I agree that this is not a kit for the inexperienced and that it's not a step-by-step guide, but the steps you DO have are sometimes vague or misleading, and providing pictures that reference hardware that doesn't exist (see Wi-Fi module) or wildly different.
I assume the above was a translation to english from another language, as this is nearly indecipherable:
"Screw the [color] wire on the INPUT cable power conductor to the top position of contactor along with the [color] wire on the wiring harness."
1) Top? You've not defined "top" before this instruction. You can't assume I know which way is "top", and "top" is a poor way of communicating which lug you're referring to.
2) Harness? There is no harness here. Harness has a specific meaning.
3) "along with the [color] wire on the . . . ". I had to assume that maybe this is trying to tell me that they want the contactor to connect red-to-red and black-to-black when connected, but that's not what the instructions say;
4) AFAIK it doesn't matter if they're red-to-black in this circuit, nothing cares, there's no polarity here.
The AC input must be on the right, the J1772 on the left.
The ground block ideally would be fastened to the backplate with two screws, but as it's only the one, it will skid around (rotate) as you tighten the two ground leads. I assume that when they pre-assemble, they use a block of wood or similar spacer wedged against the contactor to prevent that. As is, it's fussy to tighten the ground leads to the block, then realign the block and tighten the single screw to the backplate. And the washer compromise is an unprofessional compromise to ground block's 8mm hole mismatch to the (#10?) SRT screw.
(cont’d from previous, due to 1024 char limit per comment)
4) On my revision of the PCB, the DC-DC converter is too close to the ISP pins to allow for the IDC connector’s key; like Ed Hubbell, I had to shave off the IDC connector key to get it to fit to the pins. I see that later PCB revisions have moved the DC-DC converter to the right, and still other revisions have rotated the ISP pins 90°. For this reason, perhaps multiple Guides for firmware updating (or branches to the existing/monolithic Guide) should be considered.
As of this writing, the Assets for 8.2.0 and 7.1.6 do not contain “flash.bat” nor “eeprom_24.bin”.
2) The filename for firmware releases is now “openevse.hex”, not “open_evse.hex”.
3) The OpenEVSE ISP programmer that I was shipped in Oct2019, Order #6383, was a Polulu USB AVR Programmer v2.1, which shipped with a std. ribbon cable and IDC connector; therefore, the instruction in Step 4: (“The yellow wire on the 6 pin connector aligns with pin 1 of the ISP connector.”) is not applicable. Perhaps I was not sent a harness I was supposed to receive, or a previous programmer that OpenEVSE shipped had a different harness.
I've purchased four OpenEVSE EVSEs, this is my first "kit".
IMO, this guide needs to be re-written top-to-bottom.
The system layout drawing at the top is both low-res (click on it and can't zoom because it's too low-res to read the text) and out-of-date, referencing a separate Wi-Fi module that no longer exists -- it's been integrated into the display PCB.
The various pictures in an assembly tech document should never show a completed unit with circled parts; it should show the unit in the stage of assembly that the assembler will be when encountering the description.
Modules shown do not reflect current kits shipping, colors have to be looked up (see low-res comment above),
Step 7 has gibberish copy/pasted (see my comment at that step itself).
Yes, I agree that this is not a kit for the inexperienced and that it's not a step-by-step guide, but the steps you DO have are sometimes vague or misleading, and providing pictures that reference hardware that doesn't exist (see Wi-Fi module) or wildly different.
You mention connecting the temp sensor but not mounting it.
I assume the above was a translation to english from another language, as this is nearly indecipherable:
"Screw the [color] wire on the INPUT cable power conductor to the top position of contactor along with the [color] wire on the wiring harness."
1) Top? You've not defined "top" before this instruction. You can't assume I know which way is "top", and "top" is a poor way of communicating which lug you're referring to.
2) Harness? There is no harness here. Harness has a specific meaning.
3) "along with the [color] wire on the . . . ". I had to assume that maybe this is trying to tell me that they want the contactor to connect red-to-red and black-to-black when connected, but that's not what the instructions say;
4) AFAIK it doesn't matter if they're red-to-black in this circuit, nothing cares, there's no polarity here.
The AC input must be on the right, the J1772 on the left.
The ground block ideally would be fastened to the backplate with two screws, but as it's only the one, it will skid around (rotate) as you tighten the two ground leads. I assume that when they pre-assemble, they use a block of wood or similar spacer wedged against the contactor to prevent that. As is, it's fussy to tighten the ground leads to the block, then realign the block and tighten the single screw to the backplate. And the washer compromise is an unprofessional compromise to ground block's 8mm hole mismatch to the (#10?) SRT screw.
No edit, so . . . for accuracy, the ISP pins were moved left, not the DC-DC converter module moved right, but the issue remains the same.
(cont’d from previous, due to 1024 char limit per comment)
4) On my revision of the PCB, the DC-DC converter is too close to the ISP pins to allow for the IDC connector’s key; like Ed Hubbell, I had to shave off the IDC connector key to get it to fit to the pins. I see that later PCB revisions have moved the DC-DC converter to the right, and still other revisions have rotated the ISP pins 90°. For this reason, perhaps multiple Guides for firmware updating (or branches to the existing/monolithic Guide) should be considered.
More notes and pictures are here: https://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopi...
A few problems arose as I attempted the above recipe.
1) https://github.com/OpenEVSE/open_evse/re...
As of this writing, the Assets for 8.2.0 and 7.1.6 do not contain “flash.bat” nor “eeprom_24.bin”.
2) The filename for firmware releases is now “openevse.hex”, not “open_evse.hex”.
3) The OpenEVSE ISP programmer that I was shipped in Oct2019, Order #6383, was a Polulu USB AVR Programmer v2.1, which shipped with a std. ribbon cable and IDC connector; therefore, the instruction in Step 4: (“The yellow wire on the 6 pin connector aligns with pin 1 of the ISP connector.”) is not applicable. Perhaps I was not sent a harness I was supposed to receive, or a previous programmer that OpenEVSE shipped had a different harness.
(cont. next comment)