Replace Controller in Juicebox v1

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Written By: Christopher Howell
  • Comments: 14
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Difficulty

Easy

Steps

7

Time Required

00:15:00

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  1. Unplug your station or turn off circuit breaker. Never work on your station energized. Remove the 4 Torx T10 Screws.

    • Unplug your station or turn off circuit breaker. Never work on your station energized.

    • Remove the 4 Torx T10 Screws.

    • Carefully lift the lid and disconnect the ribbon cable for the indicator lights.

    Edit

    Ours are security T-20, not plain T-10

    Ben F - Reply

  2. Remove the 4 3/8" nuts on each corner of the controller board. Remove all of the connectors. Note most have tabs which when pressed release the connector.

    • Remove the 4 3/8" nuts on each corner of the controller board.

    • Remove all of the connectors. Note most have tabs which when pressed release the connector.

    • Remove the circuit board.

    Edit

    Yeah. 9mm worked for me. Note the top right and bottom left have washers as well (for their grounding pads).

    Luke - Reply

    It was awkward trying to disconnect the cables while the board was loose. I ended up putting the 3/8’ nuts back on while I did that.

    Tom Harrington - Reply

    Mine were 11/32" as well (or maybe 9mm)

    Andy Sayler - Reply

    Ours were 11/32" nuts, not 3/8"

    Ben F - Reply

  3. Install the OpenEVSE controller board.

    • Install the OpenEVSE controller board.

    • Secure the controller with the 4 3/8" nuts.

    Edit

  4. Identify the AC wires coming from the circuit board/Relay Module. Tie wrap them together. Connect AC_INPUT (RED and BLACK) and AC_TEST (BLUE and ORANGE)

    • Identify the AC wires coming from the circuit board/Relay Module. Tie wrap them together.

    • Connect AC_INPUT (RED and BLACK) and AC_TEST (BLUE and ORANGE)

    Edit

    The blue/orange pair was shorter than these photos suggest. I had to reroute it to get it to reach far enough to connect.

    Tom Harrington - Reply

  5. Connect Antenna wire to the WiFi module Connect the donut coil WITHOUT the additional wire wrap to the AMP_CT connector. One Power wire runs through this coil. Connect the donut coil WITHOUT the additional wire wrap to the AMP_CT connector. One Power wire runs through this coil.

    • Connect Antenna wire to the WiFi module

    • Connect the donut coil WITHOUT the additional wire wrap to the AMP_CT connector. One Power wire runs through this coil.

    Edit

  6. Connect the 3 pin connector that goes to the relay and has the pilot line to the EV handle to the PILOT - 12vDC relay connector. Connect the donut coil WITH the additional wire wrap to the GFCI connector. Connect the wrap to the Test Coil Connector. Connect the donut coil WITH the additional wire wrap to the GFCI connector. Connect the wrap to the Test Coil Connector.

    • Connect the 3 pin connector that goes to the relay and has the pilot line to the EV handle to the PILOT - 12vDC relay connector.

    • Connect the donut coil WITH the additional wire wrap to the GFCI connector. Connect the wrap to the Test Coil Connector.

    Edit

    I had to reposition the black nut on the cables in order to get this wires to barely reach on this new PCB. This was a lot harder than it seems like it should be because the nut is very tight.

    Luke - Reply

  7. Connect the ribbon cable for the indicator lights. Secure the 4 TORX T10 screws on each corner of the lid.

    • Connect the ribbon cable for the indicator lights.

    • Secure the 4 TORX T10 screws on each corner of the lid.

    Edit

    Cannot get charger to charge after switching this board. I can hear the click to initiate and then the charger stops. Have tried 2 different vehicles and same result.

    Matt - Reply

    I’m having the same experience with the leds. Has anyone solved this?

    Luke - Reply

    I was encountering the same thing and I saw your comments. Try flipping the cable around. I looked at it and saw that only 1 side of the cable had conductors exposed. That side needs to face the side of the connector that have metal connectors. The "natural" way (which is without twisting the cable 180 degrees) has the plastic side touching the metal connectors... basically not connected... :-)

    Michael Chu -

    No luck getting the LEDs on the juicebox to work

    Ben F - Reply

    Do note that if you have the 3-phase version of this box, the wiring may need to be routed a bit differently. Also the relay is not 12 VDC, instead it’s a 230 VAC refrigeration-style contactor. So you’ll need to deal with that somehow as well (I just found out and am working on it…)

    Philip - Reply

Finish Line

Author

Christopher Howell

Member since: 07/05/2014

7,375 Reputation

23 Guides authored

2 Comments

In the my JuiceBox, the original controller has 2032 battery on back side.

Is this controller has such battery? Or saves all info in the flash memory?

Oleg Khovayko - Reply

Is it possible to connect the color LCD to this? Do you have a guide? Will probably need to cut the lid, but it's okay.

Yiding Zhou - Reply

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