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Unplug your station or turn off the circuit breaker. Never work on your station energized.
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Remove the 4 Phillips head screws.
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Carefully lift the lid and disconnect the cable for the indicator lights.
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Remove the 6 Phillips head screws on the controller board.
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Remove all the connectors. Note most have tabs which when pressed release the connector.
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Remove the circuit board.
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Install the OpenEVSE controller.
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Secure with the 6 Phillips screws removed in the previous step.
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Add the single green wire under the top left position.
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Add all 3 green wires under the bottom left position with the longest screw.
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Identify the AC wires coming from the circuit board/relay module. Tie wrap them together.
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Connect AC_INPUT (RED and BLACK small 2 Position connector) and AC_TEST (RED and BLACK Large 3 Position connector)
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Gather the rest of the wires together and route up and along the green wire. Loosely add a couple tie wraps to keep the wires away from the RED and BLACK power wires.
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Connect the donut shaped coil WITHOUT the additional wire wrap to the AMP_CT connector.
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Note - One Power wire runs through this coil.
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Connect the connector that goes to the relay to the DCRELAY connector and the pilot wire that goes out to the EV Handle to the PILOT connector.
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Connect the Donut shaped coil WITH the additional wire wrap to the GFCI connector. Connect the Wire Wrap to the TEST_COIL connector.
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Note - Two power wires go through the GFCI coil.
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Connect the cable for the indicator lights to the RGB_LED connector.
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Secure the lid with the 4 Phillips head screws
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9 Comments
Can you set the maximum station output current via a jumper? My car can only pull 3.8kW and I get it that under normal working conditions the station can't supply more than the car can accept but I am a little paranoid about the maximum current value resetting to a higher default value after the station is power cycled. If I do change the value in the web interface, can I set it in the ESP32's flash?
I upgraded my non-functioning JuiceBox V2 yesterday using both this OpenEVSE tutorial and this Youtube tutorial, which was useful but a bit unnerving as the youtuber got it wrong on the first try and never explains his mistake. In my caution, I labeled each wire as I disconnected it, first finding it in OpenEVSE tutorial using supplied pictures and text, then affixing a label matching the correct position on the OpenEVSE board. There are three same-sized plugs that you could mix up if not careful. My labels made it easy to get it right; the station is working perfectly! This is a great example of "reuse, repair, recycle"! Much of the JuiceBox is retained and reused, including all that copper, plastic case and fittings, beefy handle, etc. All that gets recycled is the old board. Thank you OpenEVSE and Chris Howell! Please consider making a specifications label that can replace the Enel X label, and a big OpenEVSE label to cover the word JuiceBox! --Jeff Parker
Jeffrey Parker - Open Reply
I’ve realised that my juice box works as single or 3-phase. It has a separate relay for disconnection the neutral and the three phases go through the contactor.
I can remove two phases and their CTs and put the neutral onto the contactor if nobody see issue with that. The GF CT has four wires which I assume 2 for supply/signal and two for the looped wire or should just use a spare-phase CT and wrap a separate wire 5 times as other instructions?
Would that get it working?
Daren keates - Open Reply
I’ve just come to Connect this up and the instructions don’t match the wire colour or some connector sizes. The Test coil has a four way connector on the end but the pub is only 2-wire. I’ve got loads left over too. Help, in on peices and I’m without power.
Daren keates - Open Reply
I'm not familiar with "wire wrap" designation. Does this refer to multi-conductor cables? In the photos, is this the white twisted pair cable and red/black dual conductor cables?
John Poldoian - Open Reply
