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  • Warning Assembly of a Electric Vehicle charging station requires wiring Alternating Current (AC) components that will be exposed to voltages from 100 to 250v. If you do not have the experience and knowledge required to safely work with AC voltages please consult with an experienced electrician for assistance and inspection of your work.
  • Note Regularly inspect your charging station. Pay special attention to excess heat, components, handles, and wiring will be warm but they should not be HOT...
  • Always Disconnect your charging station from power before performing an inspection and/or maintenance
Image 1/3: Flip lid upside down and stack... Foam seal, then LCD clear window (remove Protective coating from both sides) and finally the LCD Window Brace (remove protective coating). Image 2/3: Place the 4 - 1/2" Screw through the lid with the foam washer on the outside. Compress foam and thread the 4- Hex Standoffs. Tighten each one hand tight compressing the foam. Image 3/3: Place the 4 - 1/2" Screw through the lid with the foam washer on the outside. Compress foam and thread the 4- Hex Standoffs. Tighten each one hand tight compressing the foam.
  • Place 4 foam washers on 4 1/2" wide head screws.

  • Flip lid upside down and stack... Foam seal, then LCD clear window (remove Protective coating from both sides) and finally the LCD Window Brace (remove protective coating).

  • Place the 4 - 1/2" Screw through the lid with the foam washer on the outside. Compress foam and thread the 4- Hex Standoffs. Tighten each one hand tight compressing the foam.

The four "1/2 inch" stainless screws that are to fasten the front cover to the gasket, to the clear screen cover, to the window brace, to the 4-40 threaded standoffs are too short. They did engage but I had to smash down on the corners of the gasket, and I got less than a half turn from the screws so there isn't enough thread engaged inside the standoff. "5/8 inch" screws would fix this. I'm worried the screen could fall in if bumped or jarred. Did a thickness spec for the gasket, window or brace change?

benjatelcom - Reply

1/2" is the correct size. In order to get a water tight seal the gasket and washer are mean to be smushed. If you squeeze the pressure plate and alternate opposite corners you should be able to get about 2 1/2 turns and a great seal.

Christopher Howell -

Image 1/3: Test enclosure lid again for water tightness. Spray water around the LCD window and button and ensure water does nor leak to the back side of the lid. Adjust as necessary. Image 2/3: Using 4 - 5/16" wide head screws. Mount LCD module to the lid. Image 3/3: Screws should be secure. Take care not to over tighten.
  • Mount the water resistant button switch to the enclosure lid, rubber seal on the outside. Do not over tighten seal, if squeezes out of place the button is too tight.

  • Test enclosure lid again for water tightness. Spray water around the LCD window and button and ensure water does nor leak to the back side of the lid. Adjust as necessary.

  • Using 4 - 5/16" wide head screws. Mount LCD module to the lid.

  • Screws should be secure. Take care not to over tighten.

  • Connect the 3-pin cable connector to the LCD module. Strip wires about 1/2", fold in half stripped wire and screw into the switch screw lugs.

  • Connect 4 pin connector to LCD note the color that represents Ground (Green as pictured).

I had two issues:

1) The mounting holes in the display PCB were too small a diameter for the 4-40 screws provided. I had to enlarge the screw holes slightly for clearance. Do NOT use a Dremel or other higher-speed power tool to do this, however! It may "grab" suddenly, or cause unexpected internal component vibration damage. (I once wrecked a digital clock display board that way awhile back.) I used a tap handle and a drill bit this time.

2) The wide-head screws provided were all 3/8"; I didn't find any that were 5/16" as specified. The ones provided "bottomed out" before the board was secure. I didn't have shorter screws handy, so I added a couple of small washers (i.e., smaller than the screw head diameter) on each screw to allow proper tightening.

Mark E - Reply

I had the same issue with the 5/16" screws not fitting through the PCBA holes. I am certain I'm using the correct screws as they thread fully into the metal standoffs. This seems odd, if I need to drill out the PCBA to make this fit.

Tony Grant -

The copper electro plating process of the PCBs sometimes leaves more copper than desired. A little pressure while turning the screw should send them right through. Drilling should not be necessary.

Christopher Howell -

I experienced the same issue but used just a little force to get the screws started. Once they had gone in a little, the copper around the hole have way and the screws threaded perfectly through.

Timothy Weaver - Reply

Drilling is a very bad idea. Copper fragments all over the board. As stated a little pressure while turning the screw will thread itself right through.

Rodney Gallagher - Reply

Image 1/1: OpenEVSE board must be spaced above the mounting plate with Nylon Spacers. Do not over tighten or compress the nylon spacers.
  • Mount OpenEVSE board to the mounting plate with 4 - 5/8" screws, nylon spacers and lock nuts - nuts on the back side of the plate.

  • OpenEVSE board must be spaced above the mounting plate with Nylon Spacers. Do not over tighten or compress the nylon spacers.

  • Mount Ground bar header block to the mounting plate using 2 - 5/8" screws and lock nuts.

  • Lock nuts should be on the top of the ground bar - screw heads located under the plate.

  • Mount the Contactor to the plate.

    • Mount the Packard C240C Contactor using 4 - 3/8" screws and locknuts.

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Image 1/1: v4 After July 2015
  • Review the connection diagram for the board you received in your kit. This guide depicts the latest board OpenEVSE v4.

    • v4 After July 2015

  • V4 Download image

  • Connections are slightly different between board versions. Refer to these diagrams if the image in this guide does not match your board version.

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Image 1/3: Packard - Connect contactor coil to the OpenEVSE AC relay output (v4 middle). Image 2/3: Kits shipping after July 2015 include a MOV V275LA20AP (red disk Metal Oxide Varistor) to reduce chatter noise created by the bouncing contactor coil. Image 3/3: If present, connect the red MOV across the AC_Relay terminals on the OpenEVSE board.  This shares terminal positions with the AC Relay coil wires.
  • Connect OpenEVSE AC line to the incoming AC side of the contactor. Connect OpenEVSE Ground to Ground Block.

  • Packard - Connect contactor coil to the OpenEVSE AC relay output (v4 middle).

  • Kits shipping after July 2015 include a MOV V275LA20AP (red disk Metal Oxide Varistor) to reduce chatter noise created by the bouncing contactor coil.

    • If present, connect the red MOV across the AC_Relay terminals on the OpenEVSE board. This shares terminal positions with the AC Relay coil wires.

  • Connect OpenEVSE AC Test (v4 top block or V3 middle) to the hot line of the contactor output (J1772 side). V3 Hot only, V4 both Hot and Hot/Neutral.

  • Connect the Ground wire from the ground block to the OpenEVSE board.

In both pictures 1 and 3, the "AC Line - H" and "AC Line - N" inputs looked reversed. Using picture 3 as an example, it looks like a red wire goes from "AC Line - N", through the left pole of the contactor, then out the bottom of the left pole of the contactor with a red wire back to "AC Test - H". I know the color doesn't actually matter, but the image looks like it is connecting "AC Line - N" to "AC Test - H". Is that right?

Electrode - Reply

H and N really do not matter, I plan to change the silk in the next revision to 1 and 2. AC_Test is 2 of the same circuit. AC_relay is a loop and AC_Line is fused on both lines so none of the AC lines are polarity sensitive.

AC_Test connects to the load side of the contactor (J1772). AC_line connects to the AC input side of the contactor and AC_Relay connects to the relay coil.

Christopher Howell -

When connecting the output side of the contactor to the AC Test points on the OpenEVSE board, the leads included with the 50A Deluxe kit just barely reach, another inch of length would be nice for future purchasers

Electrode - Reply

Unfortunately the pre_terminated leads which judt started shipping only come in 7". I will likely flip the positions on Input and J1772 in the photos which will give an inch more slack by sending the bottom connector to the far terminals.

Christopher Howell -

For the newer units with the MOV, I found it quite difficult to insert both the MOV leads and the relay connection wires into the AC relay outputs (the terminals on the OpenEVSE board). Those holes even with the screw fully up, don't seem to be large enough. Is there some trick for doing this?

Roger Colbeck - Reply

One of the connections I managed to get both the tinned wire and the MOV lead into the connector. For the other one, I elected to cut the tinned end off, strip it back a 1/4" and fit the strands around the MOV's lead, which I had inserted first. Spent 10 minutes before that trying to get both in. The tinned lead was just too big, and did that rather than heat up the iron and wick some off.

Either way, make sure to do a pull test on these, as well as every other connection you make.

Chris -

For inserting the MOV with the wires, I realize the intent was not to solder, but it was really simple to solder the wires to the leads of the MOV.

Rodney Gallagher - Reply

In the Ultimate Bundle - OpenEVSE P50-D Kit Level2 50A Deluxe, the wires supplied for the contactor coil are #18 AWG red and black, but the wires are too large to fit in the termianl strip along with the MOV leads. I substituted #22 AWG for the contactor coil connections so that the wires plus MOV fit in the terminal strip (required crimping lugs on the #22 wires).

lreeves650 - Reply

Image 1/1: Mount plate to Enclosure box using q6 - self tapping screws (2 top, 2 middle 2 bottom).
  • Install Cable glands on the enclosure. If using a large gland for the input cable, use a step drill to enlarge the hole.

  • Mount plate to Enclosure box using q6 - self tapping screws (2 top, 2 middle 2 bottom).

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Image 1/2: Thread BOTH AC lines  through the Ground Fault Coil (4-pin). If you are using the OpenEVSE 40A J1772 Cable, this is both the red pairs AND the black pairs. Image 2/2: Thread one AC line (either side Hot1 or side Hot2) through the current-measurement CT (2-pin [http://store.openevse.com/products/current-measurement-transformer-kit|OpenEVSE Current CT]) .       If you are using the OpenEVSE 40A J1772 Cable, this is either the red pair OR the black pair of wires.
  • Be sure the J1772 cable has 7" of the exterior insulation removed. The Pilot lead will not reach with less. The Ground can be trimmed to 6" and the power pairs can be 5". Insert the J1772 cable through a Cable Gland and assemble loosely into the hole in the box.

  • Thread BOTH AC lines through the Ground Fault Coil (4-pin). If you are using the OpenEVSE 40A J1772 Cable, this is both the red pairs AND the black pairs.

  • Thread one AC line (either side Hot1 or side Hot2) through the current-measurement CT (2-pin OpenEVSE Current CT) . If you are using the OpenEVSE 40A J1772 Cable, this is either the red pair OR the black pair of wires.

How should a Type 2 Mennekes cable be correctly connected?

Juerg - Reply

Image 1/1: Deluxe kits - Connect the current measurement CT to the 2 pin connector (either direction is fine).
  • Connect the 4-pin GFCI CT connector to the OpenEVSE board. This coil has two black wires and two orange self-test wires looped through the coil with a 4 pin connector. Orange Self test wires positioned to the inside Black GFCI CT wires to the outside.

  • Deluxe kits - Connect the current measurement CT to the 2 pin connector (either direction is fine).

  • Connect the J1772 pilot line (see below for common colors) to the OpenEVSE pilot screw terminal connection.

    • OpenEVSE Quick Charge Power and Tesla PURPLE, Leviton ORANGE, Yazaki BLUE

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Image 1/3: If using the Ultra Flexible Cable, twist to connect and combine the 2-black pair and 2-red pair wires . Image 2/3: If your cable has thinner power conductors,  then fold each stripped conductor in half  to double up and increase the contact area in Lug. Image 3/3: Insert conductors into the lugs and tighten screws.     Pull test the integrity of the connections.
  • Strip 3/4" wire from each hot wire. If using the OpenEVSE Ultra Flexible 40A cable there are 2 pairs (4 wires).

  • If using the Ultra Flexible Cable, twist to connect and combine the 2-black pair and 2-red pair wires .

  • If your cable has thinner power conductors, then fold each stripped conductor in half to double up and increase the contact area in Lug.

  • Insert conductors into the lugs and tighten screws. Pull test the integrity of the connections.

  • Tighten the J1772 cable gland and check its integrity.

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Image 1/3: Strip the insulation off about 3/4". For smaller conductors  strip extra and fold Conductor in half (if possible) to fill the lug and increase the conducting contact area. Image 2/3: Check the color code for your country and plug type as it varies region by region. Pictures show US 3 wire (Green, White, Black). Note US 4 wire (Green, White, Black, Red)  White Neutral not used and should be capped. Image 3/3: Insert wires into lugs and tighten. The 50A kit supports both Split Phase US (Hot, Hot and Ground) and single Phase (Hot, Neutral, Ground) at a voltage of 208 - 240v AC.
  • Insert the AC Input cable through a Cable Gland and assemble loosely into the hole in the box.

  • Strip the insulation off about 3/4". For smaller conductors strip extra and fold Conductor in half (if possible) to fill the lug and increase the conducting contact area.

  • Check the color code for your country and plug type as it varies region by region. Pictures show US 3 wire (Green, White, Black). Note US 4 wire (Green, White, Black, Red) White Neutral not used and should be capped.

  • Insert wires into lugs and tighten. The 50A kit supports both Split Phase US (Hot, Hot and Ground) and single Phase (Hot, Neutral, Ground) at a voltage of 208 - 240v AC.

  • Tighten the cable gland and check its integrity. Check the input wires are secure.

The diagram only show a 3 wire AC setup. Possibly from a hardwired setup or a 6-50 cord or a 10-50 cord. If I'm using a 4 wire from a 4-50 the hot leads are red and black and the neutral is white. The picture should clarify that the neutral is not to be used as you need both 120 V AC hot lines (red and black) to make up the 240 VAC potential.

Tony Grant - Reply

For a 4 Wire Setup, Neutral is not used and should be capped.

Christopher Howell -

Image 1/2: Connect the Ground from the J1772 cable to the ground block. Image 2/2: Connect the 4 pin LCD cable. Ensure GND marked on LCD matches Ground on OpenEVSE board (pin closest to board edge).
  • Connect the ground (Green) from the AC cord to the ground block.

  • Connect the Ground from the J1772 cable to the ground block.

  • Connect the 4 pin LCD cable. Ensure GND marked on LCD matches Ground on OpenEVSE board (pin closest to board edge).

Where is the pilot connection?

George - Reply

2 pictures show the pilot, one in step 4 and another in step 10, although the latter is difficult to tell that it is the middle terminal of the upper 3 terminal block.

Chris -

Just wanted to confirm this, Thanks, Chris! I too was a bit confused, mainly because you don't have a good pic posted with the pilot wire actually connected to the board. Glad I saw this comment to clear up my confusion!

Brad Hawkinson - Reply

Image 1/1: Adjust LED contrast (VR-1).   1/4 turn Clock wise should be about right.    Be careful around power lines.
  • Power ON. Use caution.

  • Adjust LED contrast (VR-1). 1/4 turn Clock wise should be about right. Be careful around power lines.

  • When adjusting, be gentle. Do not force past the stop in either direction. If forced past the stop, the part will no longer function.

  • Secure the enclosure lid. Tighten the screws slowly alternating across and top, middle and bottom.

Several times it says to adjust the contrast of the display.

Is there a way to do this without closing it up and adding power?

I had to close and open it several times to adjust the display.

Mark - Reply

Yes, you adjust it with the cover removed, the LCD connected (there is enough slack to do this) and power connected to it. I connected a grounded 120 volt cord with it still on the benchtop to make the adjustment. Just be very careful you don't touch the energized terminals.

donahuepaul -

The piece of metal to turn VR-1 for contrast snapped off the board. What do I need to replace this piece or can I still change the contrast without it? My contrast has not been working and the display is only a solid color.

Drew - Reply

Image 1/1: Value kit only -  Set "Backlight Type" to Monochrome.  Menu => Setup => Backlight Type.
  • To Enter the Menu Press and hold the button (long press). Press and release (short press) to scroll through Options.

  • Value kit only - Set "Backlight Type" to Monochrome. Menu => Setup => Backlight Type.

  • Set "Service Level" to Level 2. Menu=> Setup => Service Level.

  • Set Current to desired Value (80% of your circuit breaker value). Menu => Setup => Max Current.

  • Enable GFCI Self Test. Menu => Setup => GFI Self Test

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Finish Line

13 other people completed this guide.

Attached Documents

Christopher Howell

Member since: 07/05/2014

4,388 Reputation

14 Guides authored

7 Comments

STEP 9

The red button, MOV: The connectors on the board, although serviceable, are tiny so I chose to install the MOV across the spare coil spades on the contactor. Could you share the specs on the MOV provided, please? I would like to use an MOV on another contactor I am using in a different application.

captjack - Reply

I assume the MOV suppresses the "hum" from the relay? The specs should be available from the part number on it - can you provide it?

donahuepaul -

Per captjack's question. Here's the specification for the red MOV - Metal Oxide Varistor.

http://uk.farnell.com/littelfuse/v275la2...

DJ Christian - Reply

I had added a photo/step of using ferrules on the high current stranded wires before inserting them into the contactor. This is good practice for long term high current loads. That photo/step has since been removed.

Chris - Reply

I finished the assembly and the orange wire of the J1772 cable is not connected. Is that normal? Thanks.

Denis Gauthier - Reply

Hello I have OpenEVSE International Combo (OpenEVSE v3) and I dindt find any eletric diagram fro connection with AC relay coil. Shoul be possible add it?

With regars

Martin Capek

Czech Republic

Martin - Reply

For those of you with the 50A kit wanting to use it with a 50A cable:

The cable gland in the kit did not fit my four conductor NEMA 14-50P cable. Only the large cable gland (available in the OpenEVSE store) will fit. The large cable gland doesn't fit the premade hole in the enclosure. The hole needs widening and recentering (as then the nylon nut that comes with the gland needs trimming to fit).

It is probably better to do this in the beginning with the enclosure empty rather than in step 10, with everything pretty much assembled (as I did).

This bummed me out considerably. It should probably have been documented on the product page.

Rob - Reply

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